Cover Photo: Thai visa centre in Vientiane, Laos. The author, sixth from left.   photo by Matthew Parker
Thai visa centre in Vientiane, Laos. The author, sixth from left. photo by Matthew Parker

My Indian Passport Is a Bitch

“How many Indian backpackers have you met?”

New York Times

The places below in blue and green are the ones my husband—English, like Osborne—can enter freely.

three whole hoursdon’t have access to a photocopier.don’t smile at them.the price goes up.

Me (sixth from left) waiting to be rejected.   photo by Matthew Parker 

First World Problems

The New York Times


Indianshey’d all been written with Western backpackers in mind. I contacted the owner of one of the most comprehensive and knowledgeable sites, and tried to get specific information about Indian passport holders. He confessed he had no idea.

A few days later, in a dingy office at the border of Laos and Thailand, I got another fifteen-day visa, standing alongside a wealthy-looking Chinese lady. And, after fifteen days, utterly defeated, I flew back to India on yet another ticket to get my visa, leaving my husband to wait in our rented Airbnb in Chiang Mai.

Le Trio Coffee, Vientiane. They do it as well as anyone.   photo by Matthew Parker


National Geographic

The Washington Post


The refugee camels of Nubra Valley.   photo by Matthew Parker

An Arabian Silk Road painting from the nineteenth century.   David Roberts/Library of Congress

India, looking into Pakistan.   photo by Matthew Parker

The zamindar of Turtuk.   photo by Matthew Parker

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Deepti Kapoor is an Indian writer. Her debut novel, A Bad Character,  was published by Knopf last year. She's currently writing a multi-perspective narrative about an American yoga student who goes missing in India.

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